At Doctor Eckstein®, We Don’t Follow Every Trend

We don’t jump on every trend, which is why not every hyped ingredient you see in the media becomes part of our active ingredient palette. We only use an ingredient in our formulations once we see solid scientific evidence supporting the effect we aim to achieve.

So, What Does Research Say About Retinol?
Retinol, also known as Vitamin A1, is part of the retinoid family, all of which are structurally or functionally related to Vitamin A. It’s one of the most researched active ingredients in skincare, with impressive, scientifically proven benefits. So yes, the hype around retinol is well deserved! And we use it in a number of our serums and creams.

What Retinol Can Potentially Do for Your Skin:

• Reduce Wrinkles: Retinol can actually help reduce wrinkles, which is one of its most notable benefits for skincare experts. This effect is due to retinol’s ability to stimulate collagen production in the skin. As a result, the skin becomes denser, thicker, and more elastic. This makes the skin look smoother, firmer, and plumper.

• Reduce Hyperpigmentation: Retinol can also reduce hyperpigmentation—dark spots caused by an overproduction of melanin. By slowing down melanin production, it helps even out skin tone and reduce the appearance of dark spots.

• Antioxidant Protection: Retinol has antioxidant properties, helping to protect the skin from premature aging caused by environmental stressors like pollution and UV rays.

• Reduces Inflammation & Promotes Skin Renewal: For anyone dealing with acne or blemishes, retinol’s ability to reduce inflammation and encourage cell turnover is a game-changer. It leads to clearer, more even-toned skin.

Do Milder Forms of Retinol Really Work? Myth or Fact?
There are different forms of retinoids used in skincare. Some, like tretinoin or adapalene, are only available in prescription products in Germany and the USA because they’re very potent. These are used under medical supervision, particularly for acne treatment.

On the other hand, over-the-counter skincare products typically contain milder forms of retinoids, such as retinol or retinyl palmitate. And here’s an important point: the idea that milder forms of retinol don’t work is a myth. They absolutely deliver fantastic results, so don’t shy away from them!

The type of retinoid your skincare product should contain depends mainly on your skin’s sensitivity. As a company focused on developing biocompatible, skin-friendly products, we prioritize gentle ingredients, which is why we often use the retinol derivative, retinyl palmitate in our products. However, sometimes a more targeted approach is needed, and in those cases, we combine milder retinoids with stronger ones to achieve the best results.

Our Retinol Favorites: Retinyl Palmitate and All-Trans Retinol

When it comes to retinol, we have two favorites that we use in our skincare formulations: Retinyl Palmitate and All-Trans Retinol. Each has its unique benefits.

Retinyl Palmitate

Retinyl palmitate is a gentler, slower-acting form of retinol. It’s a combination of retinol and palmitic acid, making it perfect for those with sensitive skin or anyone who wants to gradually introduce retinol into their routine. If you're new to retinol or have more delicate skin, products containing retinyl palmitate are a fantastic choice. For example, we use it in our Active Concentrate Brightening Complex, where it’s paired with niacinamide for a smoother, more radiant complexion.

All-Trans Retinol

All-Trans Retinol is the pure, natural form of retinol and is considered stronger and faster-acting. It delivers visible results more quickly, which is why it’s often used in more intensive anti-aging treatments. We use All-Trans Retinol in our Retinol Supreme Night Care, combining it with retinyl palmitate to offer a balanced approach to skincare for demanding, mature skin.

Good to Know
Starting in November 2025, the EU will limit the amount of retinoids in facial products to 0.3%. Rest assured, none of our products exceed this limit. However, by May 2027, products containing retinoids will need to carry a warning label.

Why This Regulation?
Since retinol is also naturally present in food, this measure is designed to avoid exceeding safe levels when using topical retinol alongside dietary intake. Excessive retinol consumption can cause skin irritation, nausea, and headaches. Pregnant women, for example, are advised to avoid retinol altogether, as high vitamin A intake has been linked to an increased risk of birth defects.

How Long Does It Take for Retinol to Work?
Retinol starts working immediately, but it can take several weeks before you notice significant improvements in your skin’s appearance and texture. Don’t be alarmed if your skin initially looks a bit worse before the positive effects appear—that sometimes happens because your skin needs time to adjust to the retinol.

Therefore, My Recommendation
Start slowly with a product containing retinol. Begin by applying it twice a week and observe how your skin reacts. If all goes well and your skin feels comfortable, with no negative reaction, you can gradually increase the frequency. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for application.

Important Tip
Since retinol accelerates skin renewal, your skin may become more sensitive to external factors, especially UV radiation. So, be sure to include a daytime moisturizer with SPF in your skincare routine.

Wishing you happy skin, 

Dr. Verena Eckstein, ND 

Scientific Literature

• Amann P M, Merk H F, Baron J M. Retinoids in dermatopharmacology. Hautarzt. 65(2):98-105. DOI: 10.1007/s00105-013-2649-3.

• Boswell C B (2006). Skincare science: update on topical retinoids. Aesthet Surg J. 26(2):233-9. DOI: 10.1016/j.asj.2006.02.003

• Farris P (2022). SUPPLEMENT ARTICLE: Retinol: The Ideal Retinoid for Cosmetic Solutions. Drugs Dermatol. 21(7). DOI: 10.36849/JDD.SO722

• Gilchrest B A (1992). Retinoids and photodamage. Br J Dermatol. 127 Suppl 41:14-20. DOI: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.1992.tb16982.x

• Kerscher M, Buntrock H. (2020). Topical treatment of pigmentation disorders with cosmetic and pharmaceutical agents. Hautarzt. 71: 944-949. DOI: 10.1007/s00105-020-04719-8

• Milosheska D, Roškar R (2022). Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations. Adv Ther. 39(12):5351-5375. DOI: 10.1007/s12325-022-02319-7

• Quan T (2023). Human Skin Aging and the Anti-Aging Properties of Retinol. Biomolecules. 13(11):1614. DOI: 10.3390/biom13111614

• Rothman K J, Moore L L et al. (1995). Teratogenicity of high vitamin A intake. N Engl J Med. 23;333(21):1369-73. DOI: 10.1056/NEJM199511233332101

Disclaimer: The purpose of this blog is to share interesting scientific literature and skin care tips. This blog is not intended to provide diagnosis, treatment or medical advice. Content provided on this blog is for informational purposes only. Please consult with a physician or other healthcare professional regarding any medical or health related diagnosis or treatment options. Information on this blog should not be considered as a substitute for advice from a healthcare professional. The statements made about specific products are not to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent disease.